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James Beard Award-winning chef Terry Koval opens Fawn, a wine and amaro bar in Decatur


Inside Fawn

Photograph by Morgan Wagoner

James Beard Award-winning chef Terry Koval, proprietor of the Deer and the Dove and B-side in Decatur, launched his latest enterprise this week: a wine and amaro bar referred to as Fawn. At simply 35 seats, its designed to be intimate and welcoming. Situated subsequent to Café Alsace at 119 East Ponce De Leon Avenue, it presents a versatile menu simply permitting visitors to cease in for a drink and snack, full meal, or dessert and nightcap.

“We would like of us to come back in and really feel relaxed—it’s not something pretentious,” Koval says. “We’re actually excited to carry a brand new idea to Decatur. That is our house.”

All meals is ready over an electrical range, as there is no such thing as a gasoline within the kitchen. Koval has additionally been experimenting with dry-aging fish, so most of the dishes will comprise dry-aged seafood. Although the cooking strategies could also be totally different from these on the Deer and the Dove, the ingredient philosophy stays the identical. “We’re attempting to be actually inventive, however our ethos just isn’t altering in any respect. What we do could be very seasonal,” Koval explains.

James Beard Award-winning chef Terry Koval opens Fawn, a wine and amaro bar in Decatur
Dry-aged pompano

Photograph by Morgan Wagoner

Menu gadgets are categorized as Noshes, Bites, Tastings, and Plates. Noshes embody olives and nuts, in addition to sea urchin chips formed like Pringles. The Fish Plate is Koval’s model of charcuterie with bluefin tuna bresaola, fish mortadella, and monkfish liver pate. He and his son went to Brunswick to accumulate wild Georgia shrimp. He’s serving it evenly poached in cardamom butter. Search for Sapelo Island clams with tuna nduja and seafood pate en croute. The Deer and the Dove pastry chef Chris Marconi is making desserts, equivalent to a chocolate-orange tart, pastel de nata (vanilla-spiced egg custard), and chocolate bon bons. Sooner or later, Fawn will supply a six-or-seven-course tasting menu with wine and amaro pairings, served solely on the six-seat chef’s counter.

The Deer and the Dove beverage supervisor Matt Watkins chosen almost 40 amari, in addition to 30 wines from volcanic soils and small, family-owned wineries. “I selected to give attention to volcanic wine as a result of I slowly got here to understand that these had been the wines I prefer to drink,” Watkins says. “I take pleasure in mineral pushed wines, particularly indigenous grapes from small pockets of grape-growing that style distinctive. I learn a e book by John Szabo about volcanic wines that actually opened my eyes to the highly effective and distinct impact that volcanic soil has on wine. When Terry determined to focus the meals menu on seafood, it simply solidified the selection to give attention to dry, mineral pushed wines.”

He’ll be onsite educating visitors in regards to the historical past and taste profiles of the choices.

“Matt has been everywhere in the world, tasting amaro and wine. He’s been to the distilleries; he’s been to the volcanic vineyards. His information is simply unimaginable,” Koval says.

Castelvetrano olives with almonds, hazelnuts, grapes, and Cruschi chilis

Photograph by Morgan Wagoner

Spirits shall be restricted to people who pair with amaro, equivalent to vermouth, Cathead vodka, and Previous Fourth rye whiskey. A small cocktail record shall be obtainable, with stirred, amaro-based drinks. Amaro flights shall be supplied as nicely.

Situated in a 100-year-old constructing, Fawn is darkish and moody. Embellished by Koval’s spouse Jen, it options forged iron mirrors made out of previous manufacturing unit home windows and areas of brick that Koval and his son manually uncovered. Fawn is walk-in solely, aside from the chef’s counter for the tasting menu.

“In Europe while you go right into a tiny wine bar, there are not any reservations. It’s informal, it seems cool, and the meals’s nice,” Koval says.

Wild Georgia shrimp with cabbage, radish, and cardamom caviar butter

Photograph by Morgan Wagoner

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