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Friday, July 18, 2025

Inexperienced is the brand new black: Matcha’s rise in Atlanta’s espresso scene


Ashley Saunders based Ash Espresso with Moss Mills of Junkman’s Daughter.

{Photograph} by Bailey Garrot

After seven years within the espresso trade, Ashley Saunders determined to just about cease consuming espresso.

She had been laid off from her job as a barista within the early days of the Covid-19 pandemic and located herself at house, with out the comfort of the store’s many espresso choices. Earlier than lengthy, she realized she didn’t really want it—and she or he felt higher with out it. The jittery, anxious emotions she usually obtained when she drank espresso, and the crash afterward, subsided when she began experimenting with various drinks to get her going within the morning.

Saunders now co-owns Ash Espresso, which opened within the Virginia-Highland neighborhood in 2023. She retains espresso alternate options on the menu for folks like her who expertise some antagonistic unwanted effects with espresso. The most well-liked among the many alternate options, she says, is matcha.

“I attempt to have our baristas put a matcha drink on the menu each season as a result of I’ve seen that individuals actually prefer it,” Saunders says. “Particularly throughout the summertime, we’ve had an insane quantity of people that need iced matcha.”

Matcha lattes with a flower and a bear drawn on top
Ash Espresso has matcha lattes too cute to bear.

{Photograph} by Bailey Garrot

Matcha, historically from Japan, is basically superconcentrated inexperienced tea. The shrubs are grown within the shade, which preserves the leaves’ antioxidants. Then the harvested leaves are processed as inexperienced tea and floor right into a positive powder, which is utilized in drinks, desserts, and different merchandise. Inexperienced teas have totally different tastes relying on their terroir and the processing strategies used to make them; thus, the flavour profile of matcha can span from grassy, to candy and fruity, to wealthy with umami.

Like all inexperienced tea, matcha incorporates L-theanine, an amino acid that promotes alertness whereas avoiding the “jitters” that many individuals expertise from the caffeine in espresso. Cup for cup, matcha has about the identical quantity of caffeine as espresso. The distinction is the caffeine in espresso is absorbed extra shortly by the physique whereas matcha’s L-theanine content material slows the speed of absorption. In different phrases, espresso’s caffeine ends in a short-lived vitality enhance whereas matcha’s caffeine gives longer-lasting, extra sustained vitality ranges. When steeping loose-leaf tea or tea luggage, you extract some wholesome compounds however then discard the remainder of the leaf earlier than consuming the tea. With matcha, nonetheless, you eat your entire leaf in powdered kind.

Matcha latte

{Photograph} by Bailey Garrot

Individuals in East Asia have drunk matcha for hundreds of years, but it surely has been gaining recognition within the West previously 20 years. The rising availability of matcha in native tea and low retailers confirms curiosity is at an all-time excessive. Matcha drinkers usually cite its well being advantages as a significant cause they drink it, however additionally they benefit from the expertise of consuming matcha, whether or not it’s whisked into water as plain tea, as is custom, or ready with a extra fashionable spin.

Meals and beverage professionals similar to Saunders and her employees are getting artistic with the methods they use it. One in all Ash Espresso’s specials final summer time, for instance, was a matcha colada: matcha combined into coconut milk, pineapple juice, and just a little vanilla, topped with coconut flakes. Close by, in Midtown, Momo Cafe, the espresso and tea store housed throughout the restaurant Momonoki, is one other spot with an array of matcha choices for any style. Purists can order a Matchacano (matcha ready with plain heat water), whereas these on the lookout for one thing sweeter can strive an iced strawberry matcha latte or a scorching Coco Cha (sweetened matcha latte with cocoa and mint).

Matcha iced with berries
Matcha iced with berries

{Photograph} by Ching Yao Wang

Matcha blended into soft serve
Matcha blended into delicate serve

{Photograph} by Ching Yao Wang

Matcha drizzled on croissants
Matcha drizzled on croissants

{Photograph} by Ching Yao Wang

Matcha baked into brownies
Matcha baked into brownies

{Photograph} by Ching Yao Wang

“Generally you simply need to change it up,” says Jason Liang, chef and proprietor at Momonoki. “You possibly can drink [matcha] with water, the normal manner, or you possibly can add milk.” He credit his workforce and Tate York, Momonoki’s space espresso supervisor, with developing with new syrups and seasonal fruit flavors to supply extra matcha prospects.

“It’s good to have the brand new taste outdoors of a espresso caffeine choice,” York provides. “I actually benefit from the deep boldness from recent matcha the best way that we do it.”

Do it your self

If you wish to put together matcha drinks at house, begin with a high-quality matcha powder. There’s a variety of high quality amongst matcha powders, and high quality impacts not solely style but additionally the efficiency of matcha’s well being advantages. Search for a retailer that provides as a lot transparency as doable about their matcha’s origins. For instance, Ash Espresso’s matcha is from Hugo Tea, whose web site presents full profiles on the precise farms in Japan that produce its matcha, and Momo Cafe orders straight from a extremely respected Japanese tea producer known as Marukyu Koyamaen. (Hugo Tea sells its matcha on-line; Momo sells matcha from the retail part of its cafe.)

Along with selecting a good model, take into account which grade of matcha is greatest in your functions. Though the phrases are usually not standardized and there are a lot of nuances, on the whole, “ceremonial grade” is promoted as higher suited to consuming, whereas “culinary grade” is inspired to be used in lattes or recipes.

“Excessive-end ceremonial matcha tastes sort of savory, and you’ll even style notes of nori, or seaweed,” Liang says. “For dessert making and matcha lattes, these notes are usually not essentially a plus. Generally folks affiliate that with savory—these salty notes or grassy notes.”

Correct storage and preparation are equally necessary. Since matcha degrades with publicity to air and light-weight, Brandi Shelton, founding father of Simply Add Honey Tea Firm on the Eastside Beltline, emphasizes the significance of storing matcha in an hermetic, opaque tin.
As for preparation, as a result of warmth could make matcha style bitter, she recommends cooling your boiled water earlier than whisking.

(Matcha needs to be whisked, not stirred, to keep away from clumping. A bamboo whisk is right, however a small metallic whisk may work.) Round 175 levels is excellent.

Matcha additionally lends itself to experimentation and customization. Shelton likes to mix matcha with infusions of herbs steeped in scorching water, similar to cinnamon and ginger, or spearmint and lemongrass. Generally she blends it with ashwagandha (a medicinal herb from Asia), which she says offers her vitality and a temper enhance in the identical cup.

“What I like in regards to the well being advantages of matcha is how one can stack different issues on high of it,” she says. “It’s virtually like a multivitamin.”

So which manner is greatest—pure matcha tea, a enjoyable flavored matcha latte, or a mix of matcha and herbs? It’s as much as you.

“That’s how tea needs to be,” Shelton says. “It’s a private feeling and a private
expertise.”

This text seems in our January 2025 concern.

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