{Photograph} by Martha Williams
It’s a darkish and stormy evening as we pull right into a tidy Publix procuring middle in suburban East Cobb, residence to a brand new scorching spot for genuine Chinese language. Shining like a beacon is the neon signal for Handmade Dumplings & Noodles. From the parking zone, we take within the view of the modest eating room, the ordering counter, and the intense overhead menu.
Inside, a colourful meals mural traces one wall, popping with hand-painted photos of oversize menu gadgets. Although spare, the place feels cheery and trendy, with pale-yellow pendants, black metal-and-wood tables and matching steel chairs. It’s bustling however not crowded: Gal buddies alternate belated vacation presents as they slurp scorching and bitter soup; one gentleman sits hunched over his coconut hen curry; a lady in sweats rushes out with many orders of spring rolls. The vibe is pleasant, sure. Fancy, no.
Among the many first people whom prospects meet are co-owners Wei Wei Jiang and Jiguo Jiang, two buddies with household ties. Each grew up in China. Wei is from the Yunnan province and got here to the States for faculty and to pursue a tennis profession (she nonetheless coaches and sports activities Head-brand T-shirts). Jiguo is a restaurant trade veteran and is from the Hebei province.
“This idea could be very near our hearts as it’s what we grew up consuming,” says Wei. She works the entrance of the restaurant, greeting prospects and taking orders. Jiguo is the top chef, working with a small crew, together with his spouse, Xian Ju, head dumpling and noodle maker, and their daughter.
The open kitchen seems Chinese language avenue meals favorites (Sichuan fried rice, hearty noodle dishes, and dry-fried inexperienced beans and eggplant) and a few 1,000 dumplings a day. Our favourite was the pan-fried chive, pork, and shrimp dumplings. The plump morsels come 10 to an order for just below $11. Particular noodle dishes embrace beef, pork, or vegetarian Grandma noodles. The broad noodles are mild and, oh, so recent that they glide. They’re ready “gentle spicy” with a mixture of veggies and spices. The Cumin Beef Grandma Noodles are flavored with Napa cabbage, inexperienced onions, garlic, soy sauce, numbing pepper, and chili flakes. Pretty much as good as they have been that first evening, they have been even higher as leftovers. Over-ordering is strongly inspired.
This text seems in our April 2025 problem.
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